Skala The village where my mother, her mother, her mother's mother, were born is no good to me. The house where my mother was born, the thatched house pierced by the branch of a walnut tree: torched in the war. Most of the village was levelled, then—the remains of my mother's childhood—church, schoolhouse, cemetery—hold out no hands to me. I crave those old-fashioned books of outlined images:water brushed across the page, colours sprung from invisibility. Skala lies to the north of my mother's village, on the same river, the Zbruch, once the border between Poland and Soviet Ukraine. Skala has the ruins of a castle or fortress—it's hard to tell which—and a street of shops, a market place and a scattering of ancient houses along treed paths. Corrugated tin in place of thatch, exposed wires. Patchings of grimy cement the shade of asbestos: regulation ugliness of the workers' paradise-- but what arrests me now is this strut of blue: iron gates painted turquoise,| the sleepy azure of stucco'd walls and concrete windowsills. A slash of acid-blue jilting fresh whitewash and, steeped in aqua tears, the slats of wooden fences. Stranded in Skala I would not last| an hour: here for the weekend, a guest on a guided tour of someone else's past, I could stay forever. Everything enchants me: grapevines smothering chain link fences, improvised shutters on a window stuck in a brick wall starved of mortar. Shutters made of hoardings from a tailor's shop: painted jacket, sketch of a fur-collared coat. Kalyna grows wild along the roads of Skala. In autumn's damp, mild air, women wear floral dresses over sweaters and trousers, powder-blue plastic mules or else men's shoes to navigate the mud. Geraniums pile like refugees behind window glass, downspouts overflow with tin flowers and prinked edging—like the market vendor in her fog-grey jacket, lodged between poles of onion, cabbage; lighting the chrysanthemum's yellow fuse. A Bellini in Kyiv 1.Provenance Bellinis belong in Venice, or any other western-European habitat. Are no oddity in Manhattan, or in any of the insanely endowed Gettys in Miami or L. A. But what miracle brought this Bellini to Ukraine; lodged it in a Renaissance-style palazzo built on syndicates, peasant sweat and sugar beets? From the Urals to the Caucasus, Petersbourg to Tashkent: an empire of sweet tooths. And at the root, Kyiv’s sugar barons, among them the Khanenkos (Bohdan and Varvara) with tastes beyond Worth or Savile Row. Zurbaran, Velazquez, Guardi, Bellini: crated and shipped from Adriatic to Aegean; through the Dardanelles, then north to the Black Sea coast. Rowdy stevedores loading crates marked fragile onto barges, past the Dnipro’s rapids all the way to Kyiv. Palazzo still smelling of sawdust and putty, each window swagged with velvet heavy as a baby elephant. Up a rainforest’s worth of stairs, the servants tote them: a still life, an Infanta, the Grand Canal, and a stern Madonna with her sleepstruck son. 2. God and His Mother Refugees, owning nothing but the clothes on her back, the cushion under his head. Banished from a city built on salt to one propped up by sugar. Kidnap victims, or even slaves, you might say, dragged off from the auction block. Naked under a gauze of holiness: the blindly sumptuous sleep of a well-fed child. She holds him the way you’d grasp a precious, borrowed thing: too huge to carry, too delicate to drop. Behind them crimson curtain, sword-edged mountains, storm-slashed sky. 3. Damage Imagine the Khanenkos on winter afternoons in the snow-hushed house conjuring Venice from gold-pricked blue, or the splurge of spotless linen round the Virgin’s face; trying to read the future from fictive battlements round a phantasmal city clinging to the mountains, from the warmth of a child’s bare skin. A world war, a revolution, a death. In her husband’s memory, Varvara, forced from her palazzo to the lodgings of her maid, gives forty years of art-collecting to the city of Kyiv in the new Ukrainian SSR. Bitterness of loss feeds the cracks halving the Virgin’s eye; splits her elbow. Wood, like faith being prone to warp, and all too often flame-consigned. 4. mirabile dictu Though its owners die, the palazzo remains: a cloth of honour, backdrop for the puzzle of this homebound stray. No commissar flogged it abroad, no prankster drew moustaches on it in an Atheists’ Museum. No gallery director or attendant, starving on the Occupation’s sawdust bread bartered it for horseflesh; no looters molested it, no Nazi connoisseur packed it off to Dresden or Berlin. Still housed in Kyiv--that reborn nest of oligarchs, some of them sugar barons, still--this refugee Bellini. The Khanenko’s palazzo still a museum, studded with babushka’d dragons guarding the trance of this child, this mother. Trance of witnessing; withstanding; embodying beauty scarred, yet undefaced.
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Janice Kulyk Keefer was born in Toronto in 1952, to Ukrainian immigrant parents. Among her publications on Ukrainian topics are two novels, The Green Library and The Ladies’ Lending Library, and a family memoir, Honey and Ashes. She is Professor Emerita at the University of Guelph, where she taught for many years in the fields of English and Creative Writing.
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